Ondine Cohane

On a cerulean sea, fishing boats bob under villages suspended like cliffside birds’ nests. Huge lemons hang from ancient groves, and barefoot-chic restaurants grill just-caught fish. There are blue and gold Byzantine domed churches, and nearby, some of th... See more

On a sparkling sunny day in late September, I am following a fluffy blond dog named Roi, and his handler, Giovanni Calderini, through a tree-studded field in Umbria, the central Italian region sandwiched between more touristy Tuscany and Le Marche. Calder... See more